Espressos and a tub of gelato in Piazza Navona, multicultural markets on the Esquiline and a taste of the Empire at the Colosseum - encounter the Eternal City with this essential guide.

• 20-page colour-map section
• return to a glorious past with the details on Michelangelo's handiwork at the Sistine Chapel, Bernini's Baroque and the city's hidden mosaics
• festival lowdown includes Roma Jazz Festival and open-air cinema season
• convents, camp sites, palazzi and pesioni: accommodation options to suit every pocket
• get out of the city with excursions to Ostia Antica and Lazio's impressive Etruscan sites